From second-hand leather to plant-based alternatives, discover how to make more thoughtful choices, what to look for and why the material itself rarely tells the whole story

Leather is durable, versatile and often made to last. But its environmental and social impacts can vary considerably, from cattle farming and deforestation to the chemicals and working conditions involved in tanning. Meanwhile, many products marketed as ‘vegan leather’ are made from fossil-fuel-derived plastics.

So, if you’re looking for a new pair of shoes, bag, belt or jacket, how can you make a more considered choice?

Start with what already exists

Perhaps the most ethical leather purchase is one you don’t need to make. Buying second-hand gives an existing item another lease of life, while repairing or refurbishing something you already own can be even better.

Leather is particularly suited to this approach. Scuffs can often be repaired, stitching replaced and soles renewed, extending the useful life of a well-made product. You could also hunt down recycled leather made from scraps, offcuts and manufacturing trimmings.

If buying new, look for quality and longevity rather than simply choosing the cheapest option. A product that can be repaired and used for many years is likely to offer better Performance and Pocket value, while reducing the need for further resources.

If you choose leather, look beyond the label

Leather’s story begins well before it reaches a tannery. Cattle production is closely linked to deforestation in parts of Latin America, making traceability an important consideration. WWF says cattle ranching is a major driver of deforestation in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, while leather supply chains can be complex and difficult to trace.

This is where People and Planet come into the picture. Look for brands that can explain where their leather comes from and how it was produced. The Leather Working Group (LWG) audits tanneries on areas including water and energy use, waste, chemicals, traceability, health and safety. Certification applies to the tannery, however, rather than automatically making a finished product ‘sustainable’.

You can also ask about tanning. Chrome tanning, using chromium sulphate, is widespread globally, while vegetable tanning uses natural tannins from materials such as bark and leaves. A 2023 life-cycle assessment of an Italian artisan tannery, published in the International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, found that its vegetable-tanning process had substantially lower impacts than chrome tanning across a number of environmental categories, although neither process was impact-free.

Be curious about ‘vegan leather’

‘Vegan’ doesn’t automatically mean environmentally friendly. Many alternatives are made from polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), both plastic-based materials with their own environmental considerations. We’d recommend looking at newer materials instead as these are oftenderived from renewable sources, including grape, olive and brewery waste, grains and mycelium.

The catch? Some plant- or fungi-based leathers still contain polyurethane to provide strength and durability. So check what the product is actually made from, how much is bio-based and whether it can be repaired, reused or recycled when its useful life ends.

It’s also worth considering Performance. An alternative that looks impressive on paper but wears out quickly may not deliver the value or resource savings you expected.

Think about the 4Ps before you buy

There’s no single perfect leather or leather alternative. Instead, the etheco 4Ps – People, Planet, Pocket and Performance – offer a useful way to think about the whole picture.

People: How are workers treated, from farms and tanneries to factories? Is the supply chain transparent?

Planet: What are the impacts of farming, materials, chemicals, energy, water, waste and disposal?

Pocket: Is the product fairly priced, durable and repairable? Will paying a little more now mean buying less often later?

Performance: Does it actually do the job well? Will it last, and can it be repaired or reused?

Perhaps the biggest question is the simplest: do you need to buy something new at all?

Choosing second-hand, repairing what you own, buying well-made products and asking a few more questions can all help shift our spending towards more thoughtful choices. Not perfect choices – just better-informed ones.

Explore the etheco directory

Looking for ethical and eco-friendly clothing and accessories? Browse the etheco directory to find businesses that share our values.

References

Oliveira, M., Zucaro, A., Passaro, R. & Ulgiati, S. (2023). Life cycle assessment of leather treatment at various scales: comparison between chrome and vegetable processes. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment.
World Wildlife Fund (2023). Sustainable leather sourcing: From ambition to action.
Leather Working Group. Leather Manufacturer Standard and certification guidance.